Kandy DIY – August 4
The train arrives on time at 2.20 at Peradenya juction. With the help of other passengers it is easy to find the right platform for the train to Kandy. It’s raining cats and dogs. I sit at the waiting room, on plastic chairs. Despite the cold, I am bothered by mosquitoes. I cover with everything I have, including waterproof jacket. I do not know how, but I deeply fall asleep, with my head against the backpack, and when I open my eyes again is 7.00. After a short stop at the station filthy bathrooms, I go out searching for a pension. A tuk tuk for 100 LKR takes me to the beginning of Sarankara Road, the backpackers area.
This corner of the city is green and very suggesting, the path climbs up the hill in the midst of gardens and beautiful buildings
We are in the Perahera period, and therefore I expect a stratospheric rise of prices, in any case my intention is to stop only one night. I find a guesthouse that gives me a room at 3000 LKR, but I decide not to stop till I arrive at Highest View Inn, the price is a bit high, 5000 LKR, but since I just saved a night sleeping at the station I think that for once I can pamper myself a bit. My room is pretty, 50 shades of pink, clean, with breathtaking view on the lake
However I would not recommend this hotel because the managers in the long run will be unpleasant, the husband go up and down the stairs all the time, talking loudly, and disturbing. The wife asks me immediately money and passport as if she did not trust me. The restaurant is expensive.
I take a shower and, at 9.00, I’m ready to go out. Before I walk along the banks of the lake, feeling in peace with the world. In the Clock Tower area is a different story, queues, traffic jams, cars, buses, horns, tuk tuks. I found myself in front of the Muslim Hotel, which was recommended by the Chinese girl sitting next to me on the train, and I stop for breakfast (35 LKR tea and sweets). The place is open on the street, large, crowded, with an enormous bustle, yet I am served very fast, probably because I am the only white person, and they notice me. I cross a huge market in the neighborhood. It looks like India, but it’s cleaner and with no cows. The rain stops. I am attracted by stalls selling textiles, there are odalisque trousers of all shapes and colors, many with elephant designs, and then blouses, shirts, T-shirts. If one wants to make such purchases this is the right place. I have a look at some shops, such Laksala and Odel, but prices are high.
Workers are already placing platforms with plastic chairs for the evening parade, it’s of course possible to watch the procession for free behind the barriers on the streets, but you have to settle down long before, in the early afternoon, and then stay stuck there without moving.
Since the weather is uncertain, I ask for seat prices at the Queen Hotel, the historic colonial building that overlooks the lake, a stone’s throw from the temple, because here the plastic chairs are placed under the arches, and therefore protected from rain.
Maybe I arrive too soon, and maybe later the prices go down (in the afternoon a place in the platform in front of mine, not covered, has been offered at 3500 LKR) however they ask 6000 and I bargain to 5000 LKR. They tell me to arrive at 18.30, half an hour before.
Having settled the organization for the most important event which brought me to this city, I just explore around, primarily the sacred temple. There is great turmoil of local devotees because these are the holiest days of the year. At the moment, in the temple, the elephants are kept in chains and fed with palm leaves.
Their mahut watch over them. I really feel sorry for them. Many are swaying nervously. I admire the temple but only from the outside. I do not want to pay the exorbitant entrance fee.
It’s not even 14.00 and, next to the outer perimeter, along the lake, there already groups of people camped to take the front row free places. Some dancers are concentrated in their last rehearsals.
I go in search of a dhaba for lunch, then I buy some things to eat during the procession. A poor rice and curry at Mallden Hotel cost 190 LKR, 60 LKR water, then I buy in a bakery some sweets, 105 LKR, and samosas, 120 LKR.
At 18.30 I take my place, in the front row. All seats seem sold, and notes with names are stuck on each of them. The parade starts at 19.15 or so, first with fire jugglers, dancers and then the elephants, in alternating succession, with different colored costumes, like the pachyderms saddlecloth, interspersed with hordes of flag bearers and bands with trumpets and drums
In short, a not to be missed two-hours show. Sri Lanka, on this side, does not disappoint my (high) expectations.
Last surprise, before going back: some parts of the city beautifully lit !
